The Surprising History of the High Heel
The high heel is universally associated with grace, glamor and feminine allure, and it holds a secret in its history that might surprise even the most seasoned fashion enthusiast. Far from its modern-day perception as a purely aesthetic accoutrement for women, its very genesis was rooted in a world of rugged practicality, masculine power and equestrian prowess.
Its journey from the battlefields of ancient Persia to the runways of Paris is a fascinating testament to fashion's unpredictable evolution.
Let's Travel Back to Ancient Egypt
Early forms of heeled footwear can be traced back to ancient Egypt, where they served both practical and symbolic purposes for men and women.
Murals and artifacts from around 3500 BC depict members of the upper class wearing them to signify their elevated social status, setting them apart from common people who typically went barefoot. The design often featured an elevated sole, similar to a platform, which also helped protect the feet from the hot, dirty ground.
While some sources suggest butchers wore heeled shoes to keep their feet out of blood, this claim has been difficult to substantiate with archaeological evidence. The more widely accepted view is that these early heels were primarily for ceremonial and symbolic use, not for everyday wear.
Riding Horseback in Heels
Let's travel back in time to 10th-century Persia, where horse riding wasn't merely a mode of transport, but an integral part of warfare and daily life. It was here, amid expert horsemen and archers, that the earliest forms of heels began to appear. These weren't delicate, pointed stilettos, but sturdy, elevated attachments to riding boots.
Their purpose was practical: the heel provided an anchor, helping riders secure their feet firmly within stirrups. This stability was paramount, particularly for archers who needed to stand up to unleash arrows with maximum force and accuracy, maintaining balance even on a galloping horse. The heel offered the leverage and security necessary for such dynamic maneuvers, making it an indispensable tool for the mounted warrior.
Adoption By European Nations
Centuries later, as Persian delegations journeyed to Europe in the late 16th and early 17th centuries, they brought with them not only diplomatic messages, but also a striking sense of style. European aristocrats, observing the regal stature and confident bearing of the Persian men, were captivated by their heeled footwear. In a society obsessed with hierarchical distinctions and outward displays of power, these elevated shoes became a coveted symbol.
European upper-class men eagerly adopted heels, seeing them as a potent emblem of masculinity, authority and elevated social status. The added height conferred an imposing presence, subtly (or not-so-subtly) emphasizing their dominance and importance within the social order. It was a fashion statement that literally lifted them above the common populace.
Perhaps the most famous proponent of the high heel in this era was none other than King Louis XIV of France. Despite his immense power, the Sun King was relatively short, a fact he was keen to mitigate. He famously embraced heels, sporting footwear that could reach up to an astonishing five inches in height. These weren't plain shoes, they were lavishly adorned, sometimes featuring miniature painted battle scenes and, most notably, their soles were frequently dyed a distinctive shade of red.
This crimson under-sole became a powerful symbol of extreme luxury and royalty, a decree from the King himself that only nobility could wear heels of a certain height, reinforcing the exclusivity and grandeur associated with this footwear. The red sole, centuries later, would find a striking echo in the signature design of a famous modern shoemaker.
From Masculine Power to Feminine Allure
The mid-18th century marked a turning point in the high heel's story.
As the Age of Enlightenment dawned and men's fashion gradually moved away from the ornate and the ostentatious, a new preference for more practical, understated footwear began to emerge. The elaborate heels that had once signified power and status for men started to fall out of favor, deemed too effeminate or old-fashioned.
Paradoxically, as men abandoned their elevated soles, women embraced them. Initially, this was often an attempt by women to emulate the masculine power and aristocratic style that heels had once conveyed. However, as heels became increasingly exaggerated, narrower and less practical for daily activities, they became almost exclusively associated with women's fashion, transforming from a symbol of male authority into an emblem of feminine allure and, sometimes, societal expectation.
Decline and Resurgence in Modern Times
Following its adoption by women, the high heel's journey wasn't without its own periods of decline. For much of the 19th century, particularly during the Victorian era, high heels fell largely out of fashion. They were associated with the perceived "irrationality" and excesses of the ancien régime and the old monarchical system. They were also seen as impractical for the increasingly active roles women were expected to take within the domestic sphere.
However, the high heel experienced a dramatic and powerful resurgence in the 20th century, particularly from the 1950s-onwards. With the advent of more refined manufacturing techniques and the burgeoning influence of Hollywood and fashion photography, the high heel cemented its place as a definitive element of feminine fashion.